Hang loose, man. That is what I expected to hear when DLG got her surf board for her 11th birthday. It was a long board and that is about all I know about the style. I am not a surfer of oceans.
After watching Soul Surfer with the family, it's probably better that I don't learn how to surf, anywhere. I have sweet blood that sharks would love.
DLG had been going to surf camp for a couple of years now on Nantasket Beach in Hull with East Coast Hui, and she always seemed to enjoy it. The beach always got crowded, so the breaks were a little tough. Notice the surfing lingo. But she always had to borrow a surf board. Some times she would go out and just miss a wave with the board that she borrowed and would often blame it. I think she also blamed the board for a lot of things at home too.
So when she got her first board, it was University of Hawaii dreaming that we were doing. We would go to meet with her every winter (and stay with her since it was too expensive to stay anywhere else). It would be a lot of fun to visit her. Yes, she still has trouble on 3 foot waves, but so what?
The surfing in the South Shore is not great, not like California or Hawaii. Nantasket is OK and seems to be for everyone. The surfing in our town is a little rougher. Peggotty and Egypt beach always seems to have some surfing but we were always told that these places were not as safe as Nantasket because of rip currents and rocky shores. I guess we'll have to wait for the outer cape and Nantucket until those three foot waves above turn into six foot waves.
Any way, her surfing is a hit and when she tells anyone her favorite sports it is always basketball, volleyball and surfing now. Now I guess I just have to check to see if there are any surfing scholarships anywhere. You never know. University of Hawaii doesn't have them...I already checked.
But we'll have to tackle the tougher waves first.
Sunday, July 30, 2017
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